After the Lolo Pass, I had a whole day of downhill (66 miles!) to a place called Lowell, following the Lochsa River valley. The narrow, winding road was blissfully free of trucks, thanks to the holiday weekend. No service stops, though, so I was dependant on peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches from the Lodge for sustenance, and fresh spring water from a historical ranger's station about half way. Oh, come to think of it, the ranger's wife had just made a fresh batch of chocolate-chip cookies, so I had a couple of those as well.
Ryans Widerness Inn turned out to be a nice, homely place with a row of rooms off the road overlooking the river. The Restaurant had placemats with pictures of all the US Presidents on them, many I'd never heard of. Me and the couple sitting behind me traded facts and info gleaned from the reverse side of the placemats while we waited for our food.