Portland, OR

It was getting chilly on the coast, and, despite the splendor of the Pacific, my mind was beginning to wander. I'd intended to make it up to Cannon Beach, but in the end took a local bus from Waldport (26m North of Florence) to Otis (near Rose Lodge), and then cycled to Tillamook via the Three Capes Scenic Route. High point being a cute little coffee shop in Oceanside, which had great views looking out over the bay.
From Tillamook, I took a shuttle bus to Portland and I've been here since, mostly lazing in the basement of Lori & Ted's lovely house in Hollywood. I know Lori from meeting her in Prague where she came to visit one of my flatmates, Chris (I lived in Prague for a short time, a few years ago, but that's another story).
Lori & Ted's basement guest-room is so comfy it's hard to get out of bed: I feel my early-morning routine is already slipping away. There are three cats (Chitty, Bang Bang and Buddy) wandering around, adding to the cosy atmosphere. Despite that, we have actually left the building on a couple of occasions, visiting the famous Rose Garden as well as such local landmarks as Trader Joe's.
Portland's a pretty cool city, with pretty, tree-lined streets and an abundance of coffee shops, book shops and neat little cafes to help you enjoy the streetlife. It's the kind of place a person could get used to. But home beckons. I spent most of today disassembling my bike and putting it away, and tomorrow I fly home, 90 days later.

A few thank you's

Well, I'm wandering up the coast at a leisurely pace, taking in the views from the fabulously scenic pacific highway. Sort of heading straight into the wind: every so often a cyclist will whizz past going in the opposite direction. I think it's about time I called it a day and took the bus up to Tillamook, or Cannon Beach, which I hear is beautiful. I also think it's time for a few thank you's:
Firstly, thanks to the partners at Felce & Guy Partnership, where I work, who gave me the time off to do this trip (and have also just given a very generous donation to my charity);
Thanks to Susan Greenwood, who's 2006 blog in the Guardian Newspaper (online edition) of her solo TransAmerica cycle journey was a big inspiration;
Thanks to Edward & Ewa for companionship on the first leg;
And finally, thank you to all the amazingly generous and friendly people I've met travelling from Maine to Oregon. It would have been so much less an experience without the kindness you showed me.

Pacific Ocean

Florence may be coastal, but it's not quite on the coast. I discovered that this afternoon, cycling the 6 miles out to the North Jetty of Heceta Beach. Coming face-to-face with the Pacific Ocean makes the finality of arriving here all the more real. So, I got covered in sand and took lots of self-timer photos of myself and the bike up to our toes and tyres in seawater.
Meanwhile, I had to sort out my exit route. Not so easy, as public transport it somewhat limited around here. Tomorrow morning I'm going to cycle up the coast either to Yachats (25m) or Newport (50m), from either place I can get a bus further North to Lincoln City. Then another little cycle to Pacific City, from where I can hop on another bus to Tillamook. From Tillamook there's a direct bus to Portland. All very scenic and lovely, I'm told. That should take me to Friday night. Portland, Saturday.
This all means more cycling, of course. And to that end, I finally managed to get new tyres ("three-way puncture resistant!"), and gave my chain and gears a good de-grease. I guess I just don't know when to quit.
OK, so here are the vital statistics:
Total map miles (source: ACA route maps): 4303
Total actual miles cycled: 4548
My bike computer, unlike me, knows very well when to quit, and seems to have broken down. According to it, I'm currenty typing at 65mph.

Florence, Oregon: West Coast.

Well, I made it. 4:15pm yesterday afternoon (17th) I trundled my bike down the slipway at Florence old-town docks & marina for the traditional wheel-dipping ceremony. Today (after writing this), I'm heading up the coast a couple of miles to Heceta Beach to spend the afternoon gazing out to the Pacific Ocean...
So how were those last couple of days? The field notes to my map had warned me that precipitation increases on crossing the Cascades, and they weren't wrong. The 16th was an easy-going trundle down to Eugene alongside the McKenzie river, dressed head-to-foot in rain-gear to keep out the drizzle and the cold.
Eugene to Florence was slightly longer than I'd have chosen for my last day (78m), but there was nowhere to stay inbetween. So I set off early and wound my way up and over the Coastal Range - my last climb, the aptly-named Low Pass. Pleasant, rolling, pine-covered hills and a nice descent following Triangle Lake Creek down to the Siuslaw River to the coast. Another overcast day, with spots of rain, but it cleared up as I headed into town. One last puncture (does that make it 13 in total?). This time, a metal shard somewhere passed Triangle Lake.
I'd been full of mixed emotions about arriving, but you'll be glad to hear that gave way to suitable grinning as I passed the 'Entering Florence' sign. But where are those bikers I met in Mitchell when I want to celebrate? I watched 'Rear Window' on TV, then went out to eat down in the picturesque old town.
Will continue celebratory grinning at the ocean today.
Stick around for a couple more posts: I have a week before flying home from Portland and I'm in the midst of planning a trip up the coast, which may involve a little more cycling as well as, hopefully, some bus-taking.

Map 14 - Eugene, OR to Florence, OR

Map Note: Don't be sidetracked by that Northward dogleg to Astoria. I'm heading straight from Eugene to the coast.

McKenzie Bridge, OR

Leaving Mitchell, the road headed straight back up to the 3rd last pass of my trip, the Ochoco Pass (4,720ft). Another 2,000ft ascent, and good to do it in the cool of the morning before the afternoon head/crosswind and heat picks up (that's pretty much been the model for the past few days since entering Baker City). The rest of the day was rather flat and uneventful, other than a scrumptious slice of apple pie a la mode in Prineville served by a waitress with a nice smile and a fabulously layered 80's hair-do.
I stopped in Redmond for the night. Another motel. Showered; washed my cycle clothes in the sink with one of those Ajax travel sachets; watched the 2nd half of a movie on TV ('Scorched'); ate; went to bed. It's not all drinking beer with the bikers, you know.
The next day (today, as it happens) I had some aprehension about: the 2nd last of my last 4 passes, the McKenzie (my route through the Cascades), being not only the highest (at 5,324ft) but also host to the final day of Cycle Oregon's annual ride. I was to be joined by 2,000 other cyclists over the pass - going the wrong way! I had visions of a torent of cyclists bearing down on me as I struggled upwards. As it turned out, it was a day of cheery waving and smiling, and at the top of the pass I joined 100's of other cyclists guzzling free drinks and food, and looking at the view.
And what a view. McKenzie pass is close to Mount Washington, and even closer to Belknap Crater. The whole mountaintop area is a sea of black, solidified magma. But what's astounding is that you don't really see it coming: one second you're cycling through dense pine forest, the next, nothing but lava.
The descent was fabulous: 3,500ft of steep, winding hairpins through tall pines, sunlight making it's way though the branches to dapple the shaded road. So chilly I had to put my windproof jacket on. Plenty of moments when I had to think, very quickly, "I need to break NOW!" before hurtling towards another sudden bend.
Ah, it's all good. Down the valley a bit further and here I am at McKenzie Bridge, with 500ft yet to descent before arriving in Eugene tomorrow. Only two more days of cycling left... I really don't know if I'm glad to have made it so far, or totally distraught that it's about to be over.