My Route


For more detailed maps, scroll down through the blog. Click on any one to enlarge it; use the backspace button to return to the blog. That goes for the photos, too.

Saturday

Sunday, 23rd September. Location: Ted & Lori’s Place, Portland, Oregon

Cycled into town to arrange getting my bike boxed and ready for the flight home. Lori recommended an excellent bike shop called River City Bicycles, but for some reason they couldn’t help. I can’t quite remember why, but they served free coffee and were close enough to the centre of town to lure me across the river to investigate Powell’s book store and the City centre. In the afternoon I went to see a curious and slightly disappointing Japanese movie called ‘Hula Girls’ at Ted & Lori’s neighbourhood cinema, the fabulous Hollywood Theatre. Opened in 1926 during the heydey of silent films, the theatre features a truly head-turning Byzantine rococo tower and an art deco interior. All that, and Japanese hula girls.

In the evening we headed out to a decidedly groovy bar called McMenamin’s Kennedy School, an historic elementary school opened in 1915. Now lovingly converted into a bar (actually, several bars), restaurant, arty cinema and hotel; I think I liked the corridors best – big, wide, wood-lined corridors full of nooks and crannies, great for recreating scenes from Buffy The Vampire Slayer. Not the first McMenamin’s I’ve been to on this trip, it turns out: the High Street Brewery where I ate and listened to the Sugarcubes in Eugene was one too. Obviously, my kinda place. I’m beginning to like Oregon, and Portland in particular, quite a lot.

Monday, 24th September. Location: Ted & Lori’s Place, Portland, Oregon

Morning spent reading a book on David Lynch in my cool basement bedroom, then toasted bagels and newspapers with Ted & Lori for breakfast. Unexpected and hugely uplifting news via email that the lovely folks at the Oregon Trail Motel, Baker City have found my lost CD case with photo CDs safely inside! With a spring in my step Ted, Lori & I headed off to visit the famous Rose Garden with it's charming and lavish beds of roses and fabulous views over the City to Mount Hood, standing rather epically on the horizon. We snooped at the Japanese Gardens too, but had left it rather too late in the day. Amazing cobwebs, though, adorning the huge pine trees on the wooded walk up to it's entrance.

Drove down to Nob Hill to explore the funky and bohemian side of town. Almost bought a cute t-shirt featuring a cartoon character called Bobby (from 'Bobby's World') taking a ride on his trike, with the caption 'That's How I Roll'. But $50 dollars, dude! For a t-shirt? Lori & I popped in to the fashionable (amongst me & Lori) Trader Joe's - your neighbourhood grocery store -for snacks and supplies. T&L were out for the evening so I fixed myself some Thai noodles and watched 'Garden Sate' on their basement mini-cinema with Bang Bang the cat.

Tuesday, 25th September. Location: Ted & Lori’s Place, Portland, Oregon

Well, all good things come to an end - but, here at least, they seem to come to an end gently with much niceness to ease the slight malaise that's settled on me since finishing my epic trip. Ted & Lori's basement guest-room is so comfy it's hard to get out of bed: I feel my early-morning routine is already slipping away. Portland's so nice, with pretty, tree-lined streets and an abundance of neat little shops and cafes to help you enjoy the streetlife. It's the kind of place a person could get used to.

Got a box for my bike from Ted & Lori’s local shop, The Bike Gallery on NE Sandy Boulevard. A friendly tech guy loosened the pedals and we took it back to the house in Lori’s car. I spent most of the day disassembling my bike and putting it away. In between, Lori & I visited the massive 'Target' store to stock up on souvenir sweeties for the office back in Brighton (and old tradition I wouldn't dare neglact), and we all had a delicious lunch together of Irish Stew with roast brussel sprouts. Drinks at a nice neighbourhood bar in the evening, then back to finish packing. My bike's all wrapped up in protective tubing, and the box has straps that hold the frame tightly in place. It's all snugly fitted in and should be fine, as long as the baggage crew aren't too casual.

Wednesday, 26th September. Flight Home, via Philadelphia

Ted drove me to the airport early in the morning. Getting the bike on board was no problem, despite earlier apprehensions – just an $80 suppliment. Flight was basic and boring, and I kept myself drugged up on Diazopam to keep it that way (never the happiest of long-haul fliers). Stop in Philly, then over the Atlantic to Gatwick, 90 days later.

Wednesday

EPILOGUE #1: Logistics, Part Two*

So how did I do? Here’s a recap of my pre-trip estimate:

TOTAL DISTANCE 4,307 miles
at 63 miles per day, that’s 68.5 days
With one rest day per week, that’s 9.5 rest days
TOTAL TRIP DAYS = 78 days
Add 6 days start & finish / 6 days for stops mid-route (12 days)
GRAND TOTAL 90 days

In fact, it turned out to be:

TOTAL DISTANCE 4,548 miles
69 days of cycling, average 66 miles per day
plus 9 rest days
TOTAL TRIP DAYS = 78 days
Add 3 days start / 9 days finish (12 days)
GRAND TOTAL 90 days

I have duly rewarded myself a pat on the back for obsessive pre-planning and am considering a new career as a long-distance cycle tour planner - for non-sporty types who value gazing at things and chatting to people rather than racking up impressive daily mileage.

*(Logistics, Part One is in the Prologue, confusingly located at the end of this blog)

EPILOGUE #2: Back To The Beginning

From: John
To: Susan Greenwood (Guardian Netjetter)
Sent: 13 September 2007
Subject: Trans-America

Dear Susan,
First of all, let me introduce myself: my name's John and I'm a cyclist from Scotland currently cycling across America. I'm writing from Oregon just about at the end of my coast-to-coast trip, which has taken me (so far) from Bar Harbor, Maine to a little town called Dayville, Oregon. Just one week to go and I should reach the West Coast at Florence.
The reason for this email is to say thank you: I've had a trip like this at the back of my mind for ages, but it was your blog in the Guardian last year that finally made me decide not to put it off any longer. And it's been such a fabulous journey.
Right now, I keep on bumping into TransAmerica cyclists almost at the end of their journeys telling me stories (like yours) of being chased by dogs all over Kansas. Thanks once again for inspiring me to get off my lazy butt and do this trip.
With best wishes,
John.

From: Susan Greenwood
To: John
Sent: 18 September 2007
Subject: Well done!‏

Hi John
Susan netjetter here! Hopefully before you were reading this email you were staring out at the Pacific Ocean, soaking up the best view in the world! Congratulations - on getting off your 'lazy butt' (your words) and of finishing. So pleased I could help you on your way, although at the moment I am unspeakably jealous of you!
I don't know what your plans are now - cast them aside, everything changes from here on in. Enjoy.
All the very best
Susan xx